Young then cut the wires about a foot past the gauge pod, stripped their wires and connected them to a single larger gauge wire 1 for each color. To complete the gauge pod, Young connected the plastic tube for the boost and added a power and ground wire to the boost gauge.
Tech Install: Auto Meter Helps Us Monitor The Important Things
Next, Young moved to the truck where he removed a side panel on the dash and fed the wires and tubing down into. The final step to installing the gauge pod is to drill a hole through the gauge pod and the factory A-Pillar. Then install the push locks. With the gauge pod mounted, Young routed the wires behind the dash and out of sight.
He was very careful to go slow and not kink the boost tube or tangle the wires. With the boost tube behind the dash, Young used an air nozzle and pressurized the line. He wanted to make sure there were no leaks or kinks in it. With power found, he used a T-Tap to splice into the wire. To gain access, he unbolted the fuse panel and moved it out of the way. To power the lights, Young went straight to the light switch. He used a T-Tap to supply the power to the gauges. He did warn us that he had seen issues with doing this on a Dodge and GM.
A simple key on ensured that the gauges had power and with the light switch on, they light up. Inside the vehicle is done. All of the wiring was run through the firewall by cutting a small notch into the cover that covers the factory hole where the clutch cylinder would have been mounted. The wiring was then routed along the cowl.
How to Test Fuel Pressure on a 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
With the ICP wires located, Young pulls back the factory wiring loom to gain access. The truck we are installing the gauges on has a Sinister Diesel Regulated Return fuel system on it. So, Young installed a tee on the external regulator.
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For a factory system, the fuel pressure would be taped off of the fuel bowl. With the sensor installed, Young connects the wiring. Next, Young installs the supplied fitting into the intake elbow for the boost gauge. Then he lays out the routing for the boost tube and cuts it to length with a razor blade. With the boost tube cut to length, the ferrule and nut are slid over the tube and installed into the intake elbow.
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Finally, onto the EGT probe wiring. In order to monitor the exhaust temperature, the EGT a probe needs to be installed into the system. There are two options here: Option 1, install the EGT sensor before the turbo. This will give you the exhaust temperature that the heads are seeing. Option 2, install the probe after the turbo, which will factor in additional heat the turbo is creating. We opted drill and tap the exhaust manifolds for the EGT sensor so that we could get a better understanding what the health of the actual engine is like.
With the exhaust manifold tapped, the sensor is installed so that it is almost all of the way in but not touching the other side.
The dissimilar metals that generate the reading for the gauge to measure are located at the end of the sensor. So, if the sensor is touching something, the reading could be faulty. The main thing to be aware of when routing the wiring is to make sure there is no interference with steering, fuel lines, exhaust manifolds, and there is enough give to remove the sensor and allow for the engine to move and torque a little. We have to really work to get them to fit right.
In addition to the pod fitting well, the gauges match the factory gauge almost perfectly. For this install, we opted not to paint the gauge pod because the owner liked the black with his black truck.
If you want to match the interior of your truck, Color Bond paint is available in most factory colors. We will safeguard your e-mail and only send content you request. We promise not to use your email address for anything but exclusive updates from the Power Automedia Network. About Us Sponsors Advertising.
Fuel Pressure Gauge - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Mickey Thompson Redesigns The Deegan New Year New Season: Ford Powertrain Tough As Nails. Diesels Around The World: I installed a glowshift tinted series fuel pressure gauge and I hooked it up just like it said to and then I rechecked it just to be sure. It all looked good so I fired up the truck and my gauge went to 80 psi but does not move from 80 psi.
No matter how I drive it or anything it stays at Any idea what I should look at to figure this out?
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Find all posts by MurderMode. Not advisable to mix and match brands of gauges with sensors. Find all posts by Benchwrench. Backprobe the 5V wire from the gauge to the sending unit to verify that's correct, then probe the signal wire. If it's 5V out and 5V in, the sending unit is probably messed up.
Hook up fuel pressure gauge 6.0 powerstroke
There's probably an impedance spec for ohms at the sending unit if you call Glowshift. I went through two gauge faces and I'm on my third sending unit. Isspro keeps mailing me replacements, Glowshift should do the same if it's a new purchase. Originally Posted by MurderMode.